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10 questions: pilgrimage in Paris

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I'm a deep believer in the power of pilgrimage to unlock full integration of our bodies and souls. Pilgrimage is an expression and experience of our sacramental nature; God fashioned us with physical bodies and five glorious senses in order to communicate love, truth, and eternity. Our bodies are not only good, but essential to our spiritual lives. When we move through the physical experience of pilgrimage, our hearts are opened. New light can pour in as we eat, smell, feel, hear, and see the wonder of creation and sacred places.


You never need to go far to make a pilgrimage, but if you can travel to a place beyond your usual routine, somewhere that takes you into unfamiliar beauty, I think you should. It’s a worthy investment that you will never regret. (If you would like help planning a pilgrimage large or small, local or abroad, or just on adding a pilgrimage dimension to your alread-scheduled trip, let's talk! This is my favorite thing to do.)


We just returned from leading a pilgrimage through France, including several sites in Paris. Yep, even the most-visited tourist city in the world offers rich pilgrimage potential. Here are some helpful notes on how:

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1. Pilgrim or tourist? Paris is underrated as a sacred destination, and indeed is filled with treasures of Catholic heritage. But don't make the mistake of thinking that only solemn churches and fasting open up encounters with God. You should definitely make time on your pilgrimage to devour buttery croissants, cruise the magical Seine at sunset, and stand under the twinkling Eiffel Tower—natural delight and wonder can be powerful reminders that God does not want only to save you, He wants to abundantly satisfy you. Don't underestimate the power of a perfect pain du chocolat to help you anticipate the perfect satisfaction of Heaven.

2. English or French? There's a persistent myth I hear from many Americans headed to Paris: that unless you speak French, you will be rejected and mistreated. The truth is that—like almost everywhere on earth—being a normal, polite human is the key. Many if not most service workers in Paris speak English (as they often do in other major European cities). They'll usually read you as an English-speaker a mile away, long before you can even attempt those French phrases you crammed on the flight. (I'm often disappointed I don't get more opportunity to employ French after taking language classes.) It's always nice to open with Bonjour, parlez-vous anglais? instead of launching into a monologue, and always important to close with Merci. But even more importantly: be polite and humble, don't be pushy, and all will be well. And there's another wonderful thing about being someplace you don't speak the language: Mass. Going to Mass in another language can be surprisingly focused as you have to pay closer attention to follow along. It's also a beautiful and powerful immersion into the universality of our faith and Church.

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3. Dress or jeans? I often wear jeans in Paris, but for a pilgrimage I think you should level up in reverence for the sacred: no ratty slashed jeans with heavy distressing, nor saggy old tees. The primary consideration for pilgrimage dress is reverence. You'll be worshiping and praying in sacred places, some of which enforce coverage of shoulders and knees. You'll also be witnessing to the sacred simply by virtue of your presence. Dress with reverence for God, the holy spaces you'll enter, and the dignity of yourself and everyone around you. You’d be surprised how powerful that witness can be. P.S. And there's another reason to elevate your style on pilgrimage: photos. You’re going to take a ton of photos, and you won’t regret looking polished against those iconic backdrops. P.P.S. On our most recent pilgrimage, I brought these satin pants (pictured above) that were an absolute dream going straight from a long flight into Notre Dame.

4. Sneakers or sandals? I love sandals as much as any girl from a place that's 90 degrees in May, but in Paris open-toe shoes are much less common. That's just information, not advice; you should wear what's comfortable and true to yourself. I'll offer this, however: I avoid sandals in Paris for a sole (ha) reason: gravel gardens. The Tuileries, Jardin du Luxembourg, Palais Royal, and other beautiful public parks (even the Louvre courtyard) feature gravel paths that are often dusty. Have you ever experienced a million tiny stones slipping through your sandal straps? It's fun.

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5. Notre Dame or Notre Dame? The iconic, breathtaking Notre Dame de Paris has reopened to pilgrims after the devastating 2019 fire. The triumphant restored cathedral is a must-see. But my favorite basilica in Paris is another Notre Dame: the Basilique Notre-Dame des Victoires. Behind unassuming red doors, Notre-Dame des Victoires holds a deep and profound intimacy, rich beauty, and more than 37,000 ex voto plaques (thank you offerings for miracles and prayers answered). It was Mozart's favorite church for Mass and prayer whenever he visited Paris, and is also connected to many saints: Venerable Francis Libermann, St Theophane Venard, St Anthony Claret, St Pierre-Julian Eymard, St John Henry Newman, St Louis Martin, St Zélie Martin, and St Thérèse of Lisieux all have personal ties. (Read more here.)

6. Walk or bus? Walk. Did you really think I would say something different? Paris is very walkable, especially if you follow a loose pattern of taking breaks for coffee, frites, glace, or pastries along the way. You will always, always notice things on foot that you would never see from a bus seat. Walking also opens the door for conversations with other people on the street. Bring your most comfortable shoes and plot your destinations along a path of 20-minute increments. If your feet need a rest, the Paris metro is very user-friendly.

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7. Louvre or d'Orsay? As an artist myself, I have a deep love for the arts. Art is a profoundly human endeavor that facilitates a kind of participation with the Creator in the act of creating something from nothing. Visiting one of Paris' extraordinary art museums is a worthy pilgrimage inclusion. The Louvre houses a vastly larger collection that spans much greater variety of genres, mediums, and works. But it's also a half-day commitment among crowds. If you pre-book and go at opening, the Musée d'Orsay is easier to book, and much more efficient to visit. You'll probably see more familiar-looking paintings there, too, since its collection primarily features Impressionist and post-Impressionist works.

8.Coffee a emporter or sur place? I was once reprimanded by a French tour guide for taking coffee to go. "You should sit down and enjoy it," he said. I disagree—there's a true joy in walking through beautiful places while sipping something delicious. But I also agree—there's a whole other joy in slowing the heck down and doing one thing at a time. Paris sidewalk cafés define the culture of slowing down. Maybe it's not an either/or but a both/and.

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9. Boutique or brocante? Whenever I travel, including on pilgrimage, I try to visit cemeteries, neigborhood staples, and thrift shops. These are places where you can truly encounter the local culture as its people really live it. Paris boasts dazzling grand department stores, but the brocantes and friperies offer tactile history and the most wonderful treasures. Seven days a week, I'd prefer a date night dress and antique crucifixes that I found in Parisian brocantes because they connect me with some real person's life and loves.

10. Café or cook? Here's my single best pro tip for enjoying Paris on a budget: manage your meals. You shouldn't go all the way to France just to scrimp on taste, but you can't blow a fortune eating out three meals every day. We balance both by assembling breakfast and lunch from grocery stores, then enjoying dinner out.


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