As a kid growing up around New Orleans, I didn't realize that our cemeteries differed from cemeteries in other places. I assumed that all graves everywhere looked like little houses, and that all cemeteries were miniature cities of haphazard streets lined with those little houses. I still remember the first time an adult explained that New Orleans cemeteries had to be built above ground because our marshy soil couldn’t hold coffins (otherwise, the coffins would float up with every heavy rain).
The cemeteries have never disturbed or frightened me; maybe it helped that I saw them as miniature cities filled with cute little houses. I liked looking at all the beautiful and sometimes odd statues. I liked the oldness of graves dating back hundreds of years into times I had only read about at school. I liked how quiet they could be, even centered in busy neighborhoods.
Cemeteries are among my favorite places to walk and contemplate, not only for their ethereal artwork and majestic trees, but also because of the natural opportunity to reflect upon the most important things. I find it compelling that every grave represents a real, living person whose life mattered to him or her as much as ours matter to us, and how on the headstones, just the tiniest bit of their stories remain. It’s so interesting and moving trying to guess all the things that may have been experienced by these people based solely upon their birth and death dates.
Many of New Orleans’ iconic cemeteries are no longer open to the public due to persistent vandalism and theft. Many others are accessible only through paid tours. These tours are fascinating and worthwhile, but if you want to see the cemeteries on your own time or budget, here are three cemeteries that are free and open to the public.
This cemetery would be my top choice for making a whole day of it. That’s because St Louis No 3 is located in Bayou St John, one of my favorite New Orleans neighborhoods. It's a non-touristy, quiet, and easygoing neighborhood with wonderful cafés and bars along an active bayou that connects Lake Ponchartrain to the Mississippi River. You can tour the cemetery to see iconic New Orleans graves, and then visit nearby Our Lady of the Rosary (Holy Rosary as we call it locally), one of the most beautiful domed churches in New Orleans. Have lunch at one of the cafés along Esplanade Avenue: Lola’s, 1000 Figs, Santa Fe, or our all-time favorite, Café Degas (wine is 30 percent off on Thursdays—you're welcome). While you're in the neighborhood, you can also make appointments to tour Pitot House and Cabrini High School, the home and workplace of St Frances Cabrini while she lived in New Orleans. If you ask, the school will let you tour her chapel and residence area. Stroll along Bayou St John and, if you’re ready for an iconic New Orleans snack, head over to the City Park location of Café du Monde for beignets and coffee. (Image source)
One of the largest cemeteries in New Orleans (yes, it’s located in the city despite its moniker), Metairie Cemetery features a massive collection of impressive statuary and family mausoleums. A stunning replica of Rome’s famous Angel of Grief sculpture is among the beautiful sculptures you can encounter. With dozens of famous and historically significant people buried here, Metairie Cemetery has been called “the Père Lachaise of New Orleans.” You can read an interesting recent article about notable burials here. Generations of my own family are also buried here. (Image source)
St Roch No 1 is an active Catholic cemetery known for stunning religious artwork like its Italian-made stations of the cross. The Gothic chapel features numerous interesting ex votos (gratitude offerings) on display. The chapel was built by a local pastor in gratitude for St Roch’s intercessory protection of his congregation during New Orleans’ 1867 yellow fever epidemic. This same chapel serves at the National Shrine of St Roch. (Image source)
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