If you're dreaming of Ireland, here are some highlights from our summer itinerary to help you plan, including some sacred sites. On this trip, we visited Dublin, Howth, Killarney, Kilkenny, the Ring of Kerry, Dingle, and the Aran Islands—an itinerary packed with history, pubs, and otherworldly natural beauty. Be sure to review my general notes for some in-depth notes about planning your days, booking tours, and other information. You can also review my Ireland summer packing list here. Now, let's go to one of the friendliest and dreamiest places on earth!
Some highlights from this trip:
My favorite Dublin attraction was the Jeanie Johnston famine ship museum. Our wonderful tour guide took us through the ship docked on the Liffey River to tell the story of Irish suffering, heroism, and irrepressible brand of gritty hope. I found a lot to ponder about the Beatitudes and Matthew 25 in the story of this ship and its captain who didn't lose a single soul at a time when most such ships lost 20 to 50 percent of their passengers.
The small but intentional National Gallery of Ireland houses some beautiful works that are worth visiting.
At the National Museum of Archeology you can see Viking ships, preserved bog bodies, and other artifacts. Like most of the museums in Dublin, it takes only 30 to 45 minutes to explore, so you can visit more than you may think in one day.
Because the Irish so often emmigrated, a surprisingly high percentage of the global population shares Irish ancestry. We enjoyed the EPIC Irish Emmigration Museum dedicated the Irish diaspora, and even discovered our own Irish relatives!
The Book of Kells and Trinity College tour is one of the few you should pre-book to ensure a ticket. However, the experience is more minimal than I expected. The Book of Kells exhibit is mostly infographics; only two actual original pages are displayed, and the Old Library is empty of any historic books. You will need only about 45 minutes to tour both the Kells exhibit and the library. Pro tip: there's a nice gift shop attached with budget-friendly souvenirs like Christmas ornaments, canvas totes, and postcards.
We loved having pints at the tiny Dublin pub called the Confession Box, where Irish Catholics once secretly received the sacraments (which were banned and subject to severe penalty) during the War of Independence.
We also enjoyed traditional Irish meals at the The Brazen Head, the oldest pub in Ireland (circa 1198); and at Bewley’s, which is set in a historic building with beautiful Harry Clarke stained glass windows (it closes by 6 pm, so may be best for lunch).
Music fans will enjoy the Irish Rock'n'Roll Museum.
The Guinness Storehouse tour offers a fun insight into the brewing process, but the real reason to go is the rooftop view over Dublin that's ideal for sunset.
Outside Dublin
Abbey Tavern at Howth was a lovely way to experience a traditional Irish meal combined with a traditional Irish dancing show. The little village practically exploded with hydrangeas and roses, and offered some magical views of the rocky ocean coast.
The Ring of Kerry will leave you awestruck by its sweeping, heart-piercing beauty. We used a guided group tour that originated in Killkarney, but you can also drive yourself in a rental car (we would probably opt for this next time).
On the other hand, benefits of the group tour were a spectacularly entertaining sheepdog demonstration from a professional shepherd (did you know this profession was still alive and well?) and a fascinating visit to a preserved 19th-century bog village.
We found great shopping in Kilkenny—think sweaters, wool blankets, newsboy caps, scarves. We also toured the magnificent Kilkenny Castle.
The seaside fishing village of Dingle was a crowd favorite, just as quaint and charming as you'd expect. I had the most incredible gluten-free fish and chips there, as well as a million ice cream cones made of insanely delicious Irish dairy. We would probably stay there longer next time. Accommodations in Dingle are mostly bed and breakfasts operated in private homes, which is part of the charm. We enjoyed the pub scene more in Dingle, with its rolicking singalongs and dancing, than the more touristy pubs of Dublin.
Some of our group toured the remote Aran Islands. Fair warning: this tour required a lot of transit to and from, beginning essentially at dawn and returning very late into the evening. However, the payoff came in views of craggy cliffs and mythical mists.
Of course, save time to go off the beaten path. One of my favorite memories from this trip is the quick beach stop my brother and I made to jump into the Atlantic. Did we have swimsuits? No. Did we drive around in wet clothes for a bit? Yes. But adventure and memory-making are more worth it.
Sacred sites
St Patrick himself may feel ambivalent to learn that St Patrick's Cathedral is no longer Catholic, but ecumenical. Inside the 800-year-old structure, I found the Tudor-era tombs and effigies particularly stirring and fascinating. Tip: the cathedral choir holds glorious public practices under the ancient vaulting arches, if you can time your visit for it.
Christ Church Cathedral has a very similar history and vibe. It's worth timing your visit to experience the massive bells tolling on the hour.
The Shrine of Venerable Matthew Talbot is located in Our Lady of Lourdes parish church in Dublin. I have a special love for this relatively unknown holy, humble man. He's our saint of the week, so come back for more about his life.
St Savior's Priory was founded in 1224 by the Dominicans. The community has a history of tenacity in turbulence, including a period of attempted suppression by King Henry VIII. Buildings have come and gone on this site through the centuries; the current church was built in 1853. Now tucked between the ordinary shops and restaurants of modern life, it offers a refuge of silence and beauty.
St Mary's Pro-Cathedral now stands as a monument to Irish Catholic faithfulness through persecution. The original 12th-century monastery flourished for 400 years until it was disbanded and its lands surrendered under Henry VIII. In the early1700s, it once more became a designated Catholic parish, but without any church or chapel; the first pastors ministered from homes and spaces loaned by parishioners. You can read about the dramatic history of attempts to build a proper place of worship. First construction on the current Neo-classical cathedral began in 1814, with a secret French architect (secret because of England's contemporaneous war with France—this is why St Mary's looks nearly identical to Notre Dame de Lorette in Paris!).
Another favorite was St Canice's Cathedral in Kilkenny, parts of which date to the 800s (!). The grounds of the keep are exactly what you imagine of ancient Irish cathedrals.
I was also moved by the humble displays of faith in the homes of the preserved 19th-century bog village that we toured. The poorest of poor struggled for survival here, but still found hope and strength in their faith.
In Dingle, the Chapel of the Sacred Heart was closed when I attempted to visit and see its Harry Clarke stained glass, but I enjoyed the peaceful silence of its cemetery and Sacred Heart of Jesus prayer garden.
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