Where to go to Mass before you go to the Saints game in Paris
One of my all-time favorite Paris activities is watching live-streamed NFL games alongside passionate French fans in divey bars along the Seine. Next week, however, football and foie gras collide when the New Orleans Saints host the first-ever NFL game in Paris.
I’m expecting that in France, too, football Sunday will be all about tailgating, bonding with total strangers, and the exhilaration of sports. But it’s still Sunday! What about Mass? If you are headed to the Saints game in Paris, here are my picks for where to attend Sunday Mass before the big game.
Planning Sunday Mass before the Paris Saints game
A few notes as you make plans:
Confirm local times: Like all parishes, Parisian parishes sometimes adjust regular Mass times for feasts and special events. The Saints game also occurs during a French school holiday, and many parishes alter their regular hours during this window. Check parish websites and socials for updated information.
Fall back: Daylight saving time in France ends at 3 am on game day. Remember to turn back your clocks an hour Saturday night and enjoy the extra sleep. Your phone will adjust on its own; a hotel alarm clock may not.
Kickoff: Kickoff is 2:30 pm Paris time. French schedules use the 24-hour clock, so kickoff is 14:30 and 10 pm Mass is listed as 22:00.
Getting to the stadium after Mass: The Stade de France sits in Saint-Denis, just north of central Paris. Whether you’re taking the RER-B, RER-D, or metro, expect packed trains and tedious stadium security. You’ll likely also want time for a pregame meal. Allow a wide time margin: if you’ll be coming from central Paris, aim for a Mass that concludes no later than 11:00 am.
For Vigil Mass: Basilica of Notre-Dame des Victoires
Plot twist: If you’re able, I recommend choosing a Saturday Vigil Mass instead of Mass on game day. Few Paris churches offer Sunday morning Mass before 10 am. Combined with navigating metros, crowds, and security lines at the Stade de France, you may need more time than you think before kickoff.
Notre-Dame des Victoires offers an ideal place for Vigil Mass on Saturday evening.
Behind the unassuming red doors of this historic Marian shrine first constructed in 1629, a profound intimacy beckons. Notre-Dame des Victoires features rich beauty, breathtaking artworks, and more than 37,000 ex votos (thank you offerings for miracles and prayers answered). It was Mozart's favorite church whenever he visited Paris, and is also connected to dozens of saints. Venerable Francis Libermann and St Theophane Venard both developed their prayer lives and eventual vocations here. St Anthony Claret's order grew from a men's fraternity at the parish. St Pierre-Julien Eymard prayed here as he discerned the founding of a new order. St John Henry Newman attributed his conversion to prayer in the church, and later returned to give thanks. As a young man in Paris, St Louis Martin chose Notre-Dame des Victoires as his parish. Louis later brought his daughter Thérèse here to give thanks for her recovery from a serious illness attributed to Notre-Dame des Victoires. St Thérèse later described this visit as a critical point in her own spiritual journey. Every time I’m in Paris, I come to pray here at least once daily.
Saturday Vigil Mass, 6 pm
Basilique Notre-Dame des Victoires, 6 Rue Notre-Dame des Victoires
To the game: Walk about 15 minutes to Châtelet–Les Halles, then RER-B to La Plaine–Stade de France or RER-D to Stade de France–Saint-Denis.
The most iconic Mass: Notre-Dame de Paris
You simply cannot leave Paris without encountering the spectacular beauty of Notre-Dame. By far, the best way to experience Notre-Dame is from a pew, not a queue. When you visit for Mass, you’ll enjoy speedy access, but more importantly, you’ll be able to pray in communion with centuries of Catholics. At Mass, you’ll also be able to hear Notre-Dame’s glorious, bone-shaking organ that regular tourists miss. Arrive at least 20 minutes early to clear security.
Notre-Dame also happens to be one of the few churches offering early Sunday Mass times. It’s also right next to an RER station you can use to reach the Stade quickly.
Sunday Mass, 8:30 am
Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Paris, 6 Parvis Notre-Dame–Place Jean-Paul II
To the game: Walk five minutes to the St-Michel–Notre-Dame station and take RER-B to La Plaine–Stade de France. Note: the metro lines in the St-Michel station are closed for renovation through December.
The earliest (and latest) Mass: Basilica of Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre
Most visitors who climb the 222 steps up Montmartre to Sacré-Cœur come for the view. The view is indeed exquisite: all of Paris unfolds below like chalk pastels catching pink light, the city laid out like a glowing map. It's one of my favorite views of Paris. But under the white domes something even more beautiful and miraculous has been happening without interruption since August 1, 1885.
Sacré-Cœur also offers the earliest and the latest Sunday Masses in the city. If you wait until after the game clock runs out, you can climb the hill and go to Mass as late as 10 pm. Save a little time to visit the wonderful gift shop and enjoy the glowy light over the plaza staircase (it’s a great spot for flattering selfies!).
Sunday Mass, 7 am, 10 pm (post-game)
Basilica of Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre, 35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre
To the game: Walk or take the funicular down Montmartre, then Metro 4 from Barbès–Rochechouart to Gare du Nord for RER-B to La Plaine–Stade de France or RER-D to Stade de France–Saint-Denis. Allow 45-60 minutes.
P.S. If you’ll be in town for a while, the primary relics of St Thérèse of Lisieux will be at Sacré-Cœur from October 30 to November 1.
A rare 9 am Mass: Église Saint-Sulpice
Saint-Sulpice is the second-largest church in Paris, but on Sundays it feels like a neighborhood parish. Inside you’ll see Delacroix’s Jacob Wrestling with the Angel, his last great work. This was also the parish of Jean-Jacques Olier, who founded the Sulpician order and its seminary, where St Louis de Montfort trained for the priesthood. At Mass, you’ll hear one of the most celebrated grand organs in the world.
Sunday Mass, 9 am
Église Saint-Sulpice, Place Saint-Sulpice
To the game: Walk about 10 minutes to Luxembourg station, then RER-B to La Plaine–Stade de France.
Mass at a beloved Marian shrine: Chapel of the Miraculous Medal
Tucked into a cloistered courtyard, this chapel marks where Our Lady appeared to St Catherine Labouré in 1830 and gave her the Miraculous Medal. You can still see the chair Mary sat in as she spoke with Catherine. Catherine’s incorrupt body is entombed beneath a side altar near St Louise de Marillac and the heart relic of St Vincent de Paul. Stock up on Miraculous Medals at the chapel shop.
Sunday Mass, 8 am, 10 am
Chapelle Notre-Dame de la Médaille Miraculeuse, 140 Rue du Bac
To the game: Walk five minutes to Saint-Placide, take Metro 4 to Châtelet, then RER-B to La Plaine–Stade de France or RER-D to Stade de France–Saint-Denis. Allow 45-60 minutes.
Mass with time for breakfast before: Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis
Are you staying in the buzzy Marais? Built by the Jesuits between 1627 and 1641, Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis was the first church in Paris to break from the Gothic. Its dome marked the first of its kind in Paris. Inside are spectacular artworks like Delacroix's Christ in the Garden of Olives. Victor Hugo (Les Miserables) lived around the corner and gifted the two shell-shaped holy water fonts at the entrance to the parish. The church doesn't allow tourist visits on Sunday mornings, so Mass is the only way in.
Sunday Mass, 9:30 am
Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis, 99 Rue Saint-Antoine
To the game: Metro 1 from Saint-Paul to Châtelet, then RER-B to La Plaine–Stade de France or RER-D to Stade de France–Saint-Denis.
What about St Denis Basilica?
If you’ve noticed that the Basilica of St Denis stands less than a mile from the Stade de France, note that the whole area will resemble New Orleans’ Champions Square by mid-morning. With security perimeters, packed trains, and crowds in every direction, if you choose St Denis for Mass, go early and plan to stay put until kickoff. Also note that the royal tombs (including what remains of St Louis IX) don't open to visitors until noon on Sundays.
Allez les Saints!
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