Satsuma cake

In Louisiana, winter brings an abundant crop of gorgeous satsumas that practically beg to be painted into rich still lifes. They also smell and taste heavenly with tangy-sweet juice and soft, easy-peel rinds. My favorite way to enjoy the bright bliss of satsumas is fresh-picked in their natural state, which is often icy cold because they happen to ripen during our frost season. But if you have a satsuma tree, you probably harvest more fruit than you could possibly eat out of hand.

This recipe will use up your satsumas, peels and all, in a cake that tastes like a slice of delicious nostalgia. I first discovered it from Nigella Lawson under the title "Clementine Cake." Remember: double or triple the recipe, then freeze and enjoy toasted slices for breakfast or afternoon coffee all winter.

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Satsuma Cake

Yields 8-10 slices

• five whole, washed satsumas (do not peel)

• 6 large eggs

• 1¼ c granulated sugar

• 2¼ c almond meal

• 1 tsp baking powder (see NOTE below)

• optional powdered sugar for dusting

1. Put the satsumas in a pan with some cold water, bring to a boil, then cook for about 75 minutes with lid slightly open.

2. Drain and discard the cooking water, let the satsumas cool, and then cut each satsuma in half and remove any seeds.

3. Blend the whole boiled, halved satsumas (unpeeled) until finely pureed.

4. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter a round cake pan (and/or line with unbleached parchment paper).

5. Add all the other ingredients to the blender and pulse with the satsuma puree until mixed.

6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the outer edges of the cake are golden brown, slightly pulled away from the sides, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with just a few moist crumbs, about 55 minutes. Start checking around 40 minutes and cover with foil if the cake isn't finished but the top seems in danger of burning.

7. Remove from the oven and cool, then remove it from the pan.

8. Optional: dust with powdered sugar or drizzle with a simple glaze of powdered sugar, vanilla, and cream. It's also wonderful with fresh whipped cream or a slather of cream cheese.

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